Cuisine • Jul 5th '22

The amazing reach of Chicken Tikka Masala

I went to see the Celtics play the Bulls last night at the TD Garden in Boston. Before going to my seat, I stopped at the consession stand for a snack. There, alongside the nachos, hot dogs and pizza, dazzling in a calligraphy font, was an indian menu and the first listing was Chicken Tikka Masala with naan and, cole slaw? It wasn't great, but it was good.

So why is this the dish, out of so many, that everyone knows and orders more than any other? Sorry to say, I don't know.I have eaten it enough times to know that no two recipes are alike. The spices, the ratio of tomato to cream, the color, the texture, all are unique in each preparation. Does anyone ask, "How is that prepared?" Unlikely. There is an expectation of deliciousness that simply goes with the dish. Honestly, there shouldnt be. It can be so rich with cream that a single bite is sufficient or so dense with tomato paste and raw spices as to be offensive to the palate. I recommend you inquire every first time you order this dish at a restaurant. You know what's good.

So what would make it great? That's easy. Great ingredients and great care in preparation. So let's explore that. Organic free range chicken would be a great place to start. I use skinless, boneless chicken thighs, but breast meat is fine if you prefer, Your local area will have brands that you can research and taste test to find your preference or you can always rely on Whole Foods to offer a solid performer.

I won't give you a recipe here. I feel this dish has such a strong need for personal preference that i can only give general instruction. So it will be up to you.

Marinade

Garlic and ginger paste is essential. You should always consider this to begin any marinade. The spices can be any combination of coriander, cumin, turmeric and chili. To these you can add clove, cardomom, even garam masala (although this could very well be redundant depending on the spices in the mix), and I like fenugreek, it's unique aroma and flavor are perfect for this dish. (by the way, I have never smelled or tasted maple syrup in using fenugreek these past many years) It is best to use seeds and pods lightly toasted in a skillet, and ground fresh. A splash of lemon juice or mustard oil will distribute the spices more eveny. Ground laurel (bay leaf) and fresh cilantro round out the marinade beatifully. I don't normally marinate for more than two hours and often for just one hour. Again, preference.

Since the Tandoori Oven is the standard for cooking marinated meats in Indian cuisine, baking is the preferred method. Not by me. Sauté in a cast iron pan on high to sear the meat and seal in the juices. If you are adept, you'll get a nice char to add that mokey flavor. Don't cook completely because it will finish in the sauce.

AThe sauce is yours, but the spicing should mimic your marinade. Onions, no onions, puréed tomatoes, tomato paste, heavy cream or just a touch of cream with cashews, peppery heat or mild. Isn't it wonderful to have choices?

Somewhere around 1992 I promoted a restaurant with a cooking demonstration at Bloomingdale's. There was a fair crowd and the chef (cook, really) used a wooden spoon to add the spices and adjust them during the cooking. he did this by dipping the spoon in a container of spice to coat it, and then stirring that coating of spice into the dish. He would taste with a teaspoon, then repeat the process with a different spice from the dabaa Three people argued with me that I had to provide precise measurements. I couldn't. I had to explain that each cook is seasoning to taste, his taste, probably his approximation of his mother's taste. So, have fun with it.